Monday, October 5, 2009

Barrier aggression, barking, and a few other things

OK, so I was asked about fence running...

Fence running, or 'barrier aggression,' is an aggressive, territorial behavior, often born out of frustration. Basically, a dog tries to get to something they want - A kid they wish to greet, another dog they want to meet or play with or chase off, a stranger they want to confront, etc. - and they find a barrier in the way. So they run along the barrier, frustrated. The longer the temptation is present, the more frustrated they get. Emotional energy starts getting stored up as the dog races back and forth, and the adrenalin starts to flow. Barking, anxiety, hostility, redireted aggression (attacking something - like a fellow pack member - that they can reach, on their side of the fence) can all follow. It very quickly becomes a habit, and can be very hard to break. Barrier aggression can lead to some seriously nasty dog fights - I've seen dogs trying to kill one another through a chainlink fence - and nearly succeed! It can lead to people getting bitten, if the dog ever manages to get past the barrier. If nothing else, it's also annoying as all hell.

The ONLY way I know to reliably stop fence running is to step on it, hard, every time it happens. With Suka, that's easy enough - With me, she's got a rock-solid recall. So, when she starts up, I recall her, immediately. Lin cannot get that level of obedience from her, so Suka will fence run when Lin is around, and I am not - Until I stick my head out a window.

Now, Dakota is a dog less focused on me, and her recall isn't (yet) as solid as it should be - She's got a bit of teenage-style rebellion in her. Basically a very good dog, but inclined to try and get away with things, if she can. This means that even as I'm improving her recall, she'll try and blow me off at times when she thinks I can't see her, or can't intervene - So I go where she can't blow me off. Right in her path. Then she gets the message. But if I move out of the line, and she thinks maybe I've stopped watching, she'll be right back at it. So I'm still stepping on that behavior - And yeah, as the weather becomes cooler, that means I'm getting my barn coat and house boots on and standing out at the fenceline at 0500. She's getting it. Slowly, but she's getting it. I've had Suka some 14 months, and had plenty of time to settle her score. Dakota is a less responsive dog, and is still very new here - She'll come around.

Other forms of barking are also things you want to watch. You see, when a dog barks at something, there are a limited number of reasons - Play, excitement, warning, threat, call for help. Play barking is fine. Excitement barking isn't a real problem, if it isn't driving you out of your head from the noise - Suka's new-found excitement barking is like getting beaten in the head with a club covered in icepicks. Standard desensitization and behavior swapping generally works with this - Create the situation that leads to the barking, then don't provide the payoff! Swap in behaviors that are not objectionable that do provide the payoff!

Suka goes insane when I grab a lead. Until recently, that meant 'going for a walk or ride.' Now, I'll sometimes walk around the house all day with a lead in my hand, and even hang out near a door. But I never put the lead on her and take her out. Yes, I've had to put up with a lot of barking, but she's learning that 'lead' =! 'walk.' Now, with any obnxoius habit, there's a last minute frenzy of a particular behavior, called an 'extinction burst,' just before the habit is discarded. Suka's at that point right now, with regards to the lead. She's putting on one last furious display of barking when I grab the lead, hoping against hope that this time, she'll get to go for a walk. But all the yammering in the world will not get that door open. Silence, and a patient sit-stay, will. I've changed the 'go for a walk' behavior to require a quiet sit-stay at the door, and when she does that on command, she gets what she so desperately wants. If she starts yammering, I turn around and walk away. Very rapidly, her behavior is changing. Soon, the freakout derby at the door will be gone - I just need to stay the course.

By the way: If I were to yield, just once, I'd have to try ten times harder to stamp out the behavior again. NOTHING re-enforces a behavior like inconsistent rewards! This is one of the reasons fence running is hard to stamp out - The dog is faster than you are. You need to try as hard as you can to stop the behavior consistently. If this means you need to physically go out to the fence in the chill early hours, well, so be it.

Warning barking is fine - Until I respond. Then, I expect the dog to shut up and let me deal with it. When Suka or Dakota bark to warn me, my immediate response is to call them to me, and thank them. Once that's done, I expect them to hush. And I enforce it. I also check out the scene of the warning - Failure to do so can lead to more barking, and / or a shift to threat barking, if the dogs think I'm not doing my job as guardian. If I'm not doing my job as guardian, they will step forward and try to take the role; Letting that happen is a BIG no-no!

'Call for help' barking is when the dog is in trouble, or is facing something that scares them badly. You MUST respond to this! Failure will at the very least jeopardize your leadership status, or worse. Maybe disasterously worse. You'll recognize the change in tone - Like a child's cry, you'll know when it's serious, and when it's less so.

When a dog barks at an approaching stranger, they're warning at a minimum, and they may be threatening and / or calling for help, too. When the stranger passes on, the dog thinks "Ah-ha! I barked at the threat, and the threat went away! Mission accomplished!" Instant re-enforcement! When it happens again, well, that (in the dog's mind) is proof that the barking works. Now the mailman comes by, and walks Right. Up. To. The. House. The barking isn't working! So the dog barks louder, maybe spins around in frustration, bounces up and down a bit. The mailman moves on with his appointed rounds. The dog has now learned that truly obnoxious, over-the-top barking repells serious threats!

So, what do I do? I step up. I respond to the call for help. I relieve them at sentry, and require my dogs to take a subordinate role. I am the boss, the guard, the Alpha. When my dogs try to step in front of me to defend the territory, I stop them, and make damn sure they understand that I'm on the job. When my dog barks to warn me, I acknowledge the warning, and then tell her to stand down - I've got it now. "Thank you Dakota. That'll do. Good girl." If she doesn't stop, now she's disrespecting my authority. "Dakota. Come. Down. Stay."

Of course, I'm not a professional - I only play one at home. This is what I've learned from reading and talking to people I respect and from trial and error over time. There are most certainly people whom are much more sophisticated and scientific about this. Likewise, I live in an urban neighborhood - Things that I cannot tollerate because they disrupt the peace, might be much more acceptable or even desirable in more rural environments.

In general, I believe that "a tired dog is a good dog" but that can backfire on you - Teach a dog that every day they're going to get a lot of exercise, and then fail to provide it for a couple days, and you've got a potential problem on your hands! I keep my dogs exercised enough to keep them lean and fit, but I do it in differing ways. Sometimes, a nice walk on Main Street. Sometimes, a walk through a park, or the neighborhood. Sometimes, it's only in the back yard. Sometimes, it's in the house (usually when my wife isn't home!). Sometime, it's mental instead of physical - "hide and seek," "shell game," and obedience training all work a dog's mind well. Exercise alone will not produce all the behaviors you want, though, nor will it eliminate bad behaviors. For that, you need to train.

For a little relevent reading (I won't call it 'light!'), I suggest books by the Monks of New Skete, and Leslie McDevitt. Do a quick 'Google;' those names are easy to find on the 'web. There are many more books out there, but those are the ones I started with.

10 comments:

Holly said...

Training Levels by Sue Ailsby is also a good resource.

http://www.dragonflyllama.com/%20DOGS/Levels/LevelBehaviours/Traininglevels.html

What I did for Meg and Conner in regards to fence running was to teach them that quiet = come in for cookies and fence running = me walking them down, putting them on a slip lead and in a crate with no cookies. Same thing, basically that you are doing, just a slightly different method.

MaskedMan said...

Levels Training. Good stuff, and thank you!

Methods vary, of course. The key is to take effective action, whatever form it may take, and apply it consistently. Dakota is only mildy treat-driven, and I try to avoid using the crate for any form of discipline (NOT criticising your methods!). Cookies, or lack thereof, would mean very little to her. OTOH, correcting her verbally seems to have the desired result; she's pretty 'soft' and hates to be growled at by people.

*shrug*
There must be as many training methods as there are dogs and people combined.

This morning Dakota tried running the fenceline silently; a big change in behavior, but not big enough. Running silently still stirs the dogs on the other side up, and is still a territorial aggressive action, albeit less obnoxious. So there I still was, feet wet in the icy dew, blocking her at the fence. She's getting it, but she's smart and she's going to try endless variations on the theme until she concludes that I really mean NO fence running. At all.

Holly mentioned 'walking a dog down' and I think I've mentioned it too, somewhere. If you don't know what that is, it's basically doing what the Terminator did to Sarah Conner: Purposefully, relentlessly, and with great focus, pursue the dog by walking straight at it. This is a very dominant move, and it puts a LOT of pressure on the dog. At some point, they will surrender, because its NOT FUN to be chased in this manner. When I've got to apply discipline to a dog that's not listening, walking them down is how I go get them. I never, Never, NEVER apply discipline after a successful recall. I don't care how angry I might be - It's Not Done. Doing so teaches the dog that 'recall' = 'punishment' and that's a lesson you do not want to teach. If you've got to drop the hammer, walk the dog down.

Holly said...

"(NOT criticising your methods!)"

I would never think that. I've had dogs here that were not treat driven, I simply had to find out what DID motivate them. Sometimes that took awhile. Sometimes I never found anything other than mildly interesting things and those were hard dogs to work with.

Since my dogs all spend a lot of time in crates, they generally don't behave like crates or crating is a discipline, it's more of a settle down time. For a dog who isn't crated much, it could be punishment and I'd never want my dog to view a crate that way.

The Wades said...

MaskedMan, awesome stuff! Thank you so much for this thorough and informative post. You gave me a lot to think about.

Yesterday morning Max took Hank out to Galloping Grace. Two of the neighbor dogs, one a Rott and the other a beagle, were sitting there when they arrived. Hank jumped out of the car and basically attacked the rott and then chased and knocked down the beagle. I don't think Max tried to call him off--and the dogs quickly worked through their issues and then happily played. Is my sweet golden turning a little aggressive? He really is so gentle and great. I don't want to mess him up.

Thanks. I'll head out to the fence when I hear him get at it.

And the recall thing, that is one thing we do very well. He always gets praised for coming when called. Looking back on a past dog, that was a huge mistake I made with her. I would yell at her once I got her back. So silly! (cut me a little slack, i was in my early twenties.) Now I hear my neighbor yell at his dog once he gets him back. I want to tell him. . .

Have a good one.

Michelle

MaskedMan said...

Trust me, Michelle - I've made plenty of my own mistakes! I still make some - And as I learn, the ones I make seem fewer, but larger. The small stuff gets sorted out fast. Fundamental screws-up can and do still happen though.


"Hank jumped out of the car and basically attacked the rott and then chased and knocked down the beagle. I don't think Max tried to call him off--and the dogs quickly worked through their issues and then happily played."

That sounds less like aggression than is does dominance. Hank, based on what I've read there, was quickly establishing "top dog" position, and once that was settled, there was no need for further drama. I'd keep a close eye on it, but if there's no blood, and the dogs played together afterwards, I'd not be too concerned. If Hank starts bullying other dogs (continued dominace actions after they submit), then I'd stop the behavior, or if you start to see one dog getting ganged up upon.

Clearly, of course, injuring other dogs can't be permitted - Liability alone will not allow that, never mind the effect on the victim! So do keep a weather eye out and step in quickly if things get too heated.

The Wades said...

So it's OK he established his dominance? I know that is normal dog behavior, but from our Hank?? He has always LOVED every dog he has every played with. It might have just been a shock for him to find them at "his" ranch. ??? Yes, Max said they were totally fine after that, happy to be playing. Max said the other two dogs walked far off about to exit the property when Max called to Hank. The sweet dog sprinted back to Max.

I really want to make sure he stays the same great dog he is. Thanks for your help.

MaskedMan said...

Heh! Read back a few posts - It can be a mystery, what makes one dog decide that it's supposed to be in charge over another sometimes, but decide they do.

Suka, whom is a very sweet dog, not very large at roughly 38 pounds, and a bit of a 'weenie,' went slamming straight into Dakota (who stands 28 inches at the shoulder, and weighs in somewhere between 90 to 100 pounds) at one point and had her back on her heels before I could blink.

Dakota is definately second banana, and though she won't tollerate crap, she doesn't start any either, and yields to Suka. I frankly didn't expect Suka to take charge, but she did, sure enough! She's still my snuggle-bug of a dog, but she's Miss Snuggle-bug, where Dakota is concerned.

Sweet dogs are perfectly capable of dominating other dogs - It's usually nothing more than an aspect of the dog's personality that's never before been revealed to you. And yes, it's OK - Very much so. As long as he doesn't think to challenge [i]you all[/i], that is. And no reason he should - you're HIS boss! He found strange dogs in his turf, made sure they knew he was in charge, then went about having a good ol' time. Perfectly natural and normal behavior for a dog.

Whenever you've got more than one dog present, one is almost always going to be 'senior.' That's just how dog society works. Three dogs (or more) is a pack, and you can guarantee there will be some sorting going on! Sounds like Hank took care of that right out the gate - get the necessity out of the way, and there's more time to play afterwards!

MaskedMan said...

Oh, one other thing. Seeing as you now know that he's dominant, be aware that this scenario is going to repeat, at least on turf he considers 'his.' On neutral territory, chances are he'll stay neutral, but be on the watch for dominance behaviors anyway - It's generally considered rude to let your dog dominate other dogs in neutral settings, like beaches and parks. But by the same measure, don't tollerate your dog being bullied in public, either. Break up the situation by redirecting Hank (I use a recall command), moving Hank away from the scene, or, if necessary, leaving.

Also keep an eye out when he's meeting strange dogs on his turf, in case he runs up against another dominant dog. Be prepared to step in if things get out of hand - They shouldn't, but some dogs are slower to back down than others. The fact that he's on his own turf will help a lot - Even pushy dogs are wary when they're in strange territory.

Dominace behaviors include (but are not limited to) 'mounting,' 'teeing off' (Rigid 'at attention' stance, head over other dog's shoulders, at right angles to each other), stiff-legged walking (a danger sign - such often precedes a real fight), getting "big" (Head up, ears up, tail up, hackles up), and resource guarding.

Laughing Orca Ranch said...

What is so awesomely helpful about this is that all of these techniques and behaviors work with human children, too. Consistancy, patience and perserverance are the most important in every case.

I read the Monks book a long time ago. That's the one with the GSDs on the front cover, right? Excellent read. Learned a lot.
Great post!

~Lisa

MaskedMan said...

Yup - The Monks raise GSDs as part of their religious journey / spirituality. They have some newer books now, including a book on choosing/raising puppies.

Anyway, thank you! I try to help, but there are days I wonder if I know anything at all. And yeah, I raise my kids much the same way I raise dogs - It's funny, hearing a bunch of 'dog people' at a get together with their kids - The kids get told 'leave it' as much as the dogs do. :-p